36 Hours in Izmir, Turkey
“Infidel Izmir.” That’s the nickname that was long ago bestowed on Turkey’s third-largest metropolis. Known for most of its history as Smyrna, this port city was, in Ottoman times, a melting pot that included Greeks, Armenians, Jews, French and Italians. Today’s Izmir is largely Turkish, but the moniker lingers. For religious Turks, the label seems appropriate for this sunny, palm-fringed seaside city, with its relaxed attitudes and many nonobservant Muslims. For most residents, though, the nickname is proof of Izmir’s progressiveness. Reverential images of Ataturk, the founder of modern secular Turkey, are everywhere, and in June many in the city protested against Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan after his Islamist-inspired government cracked down on peaceful demonstrators in Istanbul who had mobilized to save a city park from developers. Izmir — which is among four international cities that are vying to hold the World Expo in 2020 — has much to offer visitors: a renovated waterfront, an ever-evolving night-life district and slick new design hotels. Meanwhile, a vast traditional bazaar and the spectacular nearby ruins of Ephesus bear witness to a rich past.
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