"Turks straddling 2 worlds in bid to join EU
By Susanne Fowler International Herald Tribune
Published: October 16, 2006
ISTANBUL The old ways linger in this modernizing Turkish metropolis, whose 15 million residents are both eager and hesitant to be embraced as European. The feeling is perhaps most tangible during Ramazan, as the Islamic holy month is known in Turkish.
There are, for example, the drummers: roving bands of men who walk the streets about 4 a.m., pounding cumbersome double-sided davuls to awaken the observant in plenty of time for preparing and eating breakfast before the fast begins at sunrise."
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