Prima doners: The kebab gets a culinary makeover
Forget eating them at the end of the night – they should be the main event, says Alice Jones.
It can be hard to keep up with the faddish rules of gastronomy – to foam or not to foam? – but any fool knows that one should never visit a kebab van in daylight hours. And yet, it's Friday night, not even 7.30pm, and hungry young men and women are crowding around a rickety table on Bermondsey Square in south London, ignoring the buzzy tapas bars, upmarket Italians and artisan bakeries nearby and tearing into foil-wrapped doners while dribbling chilli sauce on their ties. Not a single pint has been downed.
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