"In a divided capital, a singular sense of hospitality
NICOSIA - "This coffee tastes a lot like Greek Cypriot coffee," said Harris Hadjipavlou, swirling the muddy grounds in the bottom of his cup.
We were sitting in a cafe in the capital, the last divided city in Europe. The cafe is set into the corner of the Büyük Han, or Great Inn, a 16th-century caravanserai where travelers rested and watered their animals, usually donkeys. The inn is the most spectacular of many preserved buildings in Nicosia. The menu read "Turkish Cypriot coffee.""
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